Loikaw

Loikaw is the capital of Kayah State (Karenni), in eastern Birmanie. Long closed to foreigners, the city opened to tourism in the 2010s and remains relatively undiscovered. It is known for its hills dotted with pagodas, its ethnic markets and the presence of Kayan women with brass neck rings. The landscape of lakes and rice paddies surrounding it makes it a distinctive stop on any Birmanie itinerary.

Practical information at a glance

• Access: flight from Yangon or Mandalay; road from Taunggyi (Shan State) possible but lengthy.
• Recommended duration: 2 to 3 days to combine city, villages and lakes.
• Dress code: covered clothing recommended for pagodas (shoulders and knees covered, shoes removed).
• Currency: Burmese kyat; few reliable ATMs, bring cash.

What to see

The most photographed site is the Taung Kwe Zedi hill, a cluster of golden pagodas perched on a rocky outcrop above Deh Kho Khal Lake. The morning market gathers vendors from the Kayah, Kayan, Kekula and Shan communities. Surrounding villages — notably Daw Tama Gyi — allow you to meet Kayan women wearing traditional rings.

History and context

Kayah State is the smallest state in Birmanie. It was long the scene of conflict between the Burmese army and Karenni armed groups, explaining its prolonged closure to foreign visitors. Loikaw itself is a British colonial administrative town, with several buildings from that era still visible. The Kayah and Kayan ethnicities have preserved distinct clothing and artisanal traditions despite decades of political tensions.

Highlights of the visit

Taung Kwe Zedi

This complex of white and golden stupas spreads across a limestone rock shaped like a boat. The view over the two lakes and surrounding hills is particularly clear in late afternoon. Access is on foot via a covered staircase.

Deh Kho Khal Lake and Mobye Lake

The two lakes framing the city offer boat rides and panoramic views of the pagodas. Mobye Lake, the larger one, is bordered by a hydroelectric dam built during the colonial era.

Morning ethnic market

Each morning, vendors from several ethnicities converge on the central market. Karenni patterned fabrics, mountain vegetables and artisanal products are on display. Arrive early (before 8 a.m.) to see the maximum bustle.

Kayan villages

Several villages near Loikaw host Kayan women wearing brass neck rings. Visits are typically made with a local guide; it is important to adopt a respectful attitude and ask before photographing.

Etiquette and visiting rules

• Remove shoes before entering any pagoda or monastery.
• Shoulders and knees covered in places of worship.
• In Kayan villages, ask permission before photographing residents.
• Avoid inappropriate gestures or comments about traditional practices.

Photography tips

Golden late-afternoon light is ideal for photographing Taung Kwe Zedi from the lakeside. Early morning at the market offers natural portraits in soft light. In Kayan villages, always prioritise explicit consent before taking photos.

Location and access

Loikaw is in eastern Birmanie, approximately 200 km east of Taunggyi. Loikaw Airport receives domestic flights from Yangon and Mandalay. The city is compact and most sites can be visited by bicycle or motorbike taxi. Surrounding villages require a vehicle or guide with transport.

Nearby

• Inle Lake — several hours' drive to the northwest, in Shan State; stilt villages and floating gardens.
• Taunggyi — capital of Shan State, a common transit point before or after Loikaw.